Starter Locs Explained

What Are Starter Locs?

Starter locs are the first stage of loc formation. At this stage, your hair is being guided into a structure that will eventually tighten, tangle, and compress into mature locs.

Starter locs require patience. Early on, they can be soft, fuzzy, frizzy, and unpredictable. That is normal.

How Locs Form Over Time

Locs form through:

• Natural shedding hair staying inside the strand instead of falling away

• Friction and tangling that tightens the strand from the inside

• Compression that makes the strand more solid over time

Your locs will usually move through visible changes such as:

• Soft starter look (defined coils/twists or freshly formed sections)

• Expansion and frizz (locs look puffier, fuzzier, and less “neat”)

• Budding and firming (sections feel thicker or more solid in parts)

• Maturity (locs feel stable, compact, and consistent)

These changes do not happen on the same timeline for everyone. Hair density, texture, method, product habits, and maintenance technique all impact what you see.

Choosing a Starter Method

The best starter method depends on:

• Hair texture and density

• Hair length

• Your lifestyle (washing frequency, workouts, swimming, etc.)

• Your patience for frizz and change

• Whether you want a soft starter look or an instant loc look

Below are common starter methods, listed from the most likely to loosen in water to the most secure when wet.

Starter Methods (Most Likely to Loosen in Water → Most Secure)

1) Comb Coils

Comb coils are created by coiling each section using a comb to form a tight spiral.

Best for:

• Coily and kinky textures (especially tighter textures)

• Short to medium length hair

• People who want a traditional, uniform starter look

Pros:

• Clean, classic starter appearance

• Easy to size and section

• Becomes a smooth, rounded loc over time

Cons:

• Can loosen or unravel when wet early on

• Requires careful aftercare at the beginning

• Over-retwisting can cause thinning at roots

2) Finger Coils

Finger coils are similar to comb coils, but formed using fingers instead of a comb.

Best for:

• Naturally coily hair that holds a coil easily

• People who prefer minimal tools

Pros:

• Beginner-friendly technique

• Soft, natural-looking starter shape

• Can mature into very uniform locs

Cons:

• Often loosens faster than comb coils in early stages

• Can require extra care to prevent unraveling

• Frizz shows quickly (normal, but can surprise beginners)

3) Two-Strand Twists

Two-strand twists are made by splitting each section into two strands and twisting them together.

Best for:

• Medium to longer hair

• Medium to coily textures

• People who want a fuller-looking starter set

Pros:

• More secure than coils in many cases

• Holds shape well between washes

• Can create a thicker loc depending on section size

Cons:

• Twist pattern can remain visible for a long time

• Ends may take longer to seal

• If installed too tight, can stress the scalp

4) Teasing / Backcombing

Backcombing is done by combing hair backward toward the scalp to intentionally tangle it, then typically palm rolling to shape.

Best for:

• Wavy, curly, or straighter textures

• People whose hair doesn’t hold coils or twists

• Those who want loc-like texture quickly

Pros:

• Creates immediate tangling

• More stable in water than coils

• Helpful for soft or slippery hair types

Cons:

• Can cause breakage if done aggressively

• Creates a fuzzy starter look

• Can form weak spots if sections are uneven or overworked

5) Twist and Turn (Twist, Split, Repeat, Then Palm Roll)

Twist and turn is done by twisting a section tightly, splitting it into two halves, repeating that process until the section becomes fully teased, then palm rolling to smooth.

Best for:

• Hair that needs help tangling (often softer textures)

• People who want a more natural, tool-light method

Pros:

• Encourages tangling without heavy product

• Creates structure without relying on curl pattern

• Can be a good bridge method for hair that slips easily

Cons:

• Can look uneven early on (normal)

• Can create loops or bulky spots if rushed

• Requires patience and consistent technique

6) Instant Crochet Locs (Instant Loc Method)

Instant locs are created using a small crochet hook to pull hairs into the loc structure immediately.

Best for:

• Any texture, including soft and slippery hair

• People who need to wash often or live an active lifestyle

• Anyone who wants an instant loc look

Pros:

• Most secure in water from day one

• Minimal unraveling concerns

• Looks mature faster than other methods

Cons:

• Poor technique can cause breakage

• Over-crocheting can make locs stiff or brittle

• Requires a skilled hand and correct tool size

Aftercare From Install Forward

Starter loc aftercare protects the foundation. Most early problems come from over-manipulation, moisture mistakes, or product buildup.

Shampooing and Conditioning

Locs should be shampooed, and conditioner can be used as needed — especially to restore moisture.

Starter-phase best practices:

• Use residue-free shampoo

• Use conditioner when needed, and rinse thoroughly

• Avoid leaving heavy conditioner inside the loc

• Dry locs completely after shampooing

Incomplete drying can cause odor or mildew.

Moisture and Product Balance

Starter locs can be dry, but they can also become oily or heavy fast.

Common beginner mistakes:

• Using too much oil (can attract lint and hold buildup)

• Using heavy creams or waxes (can get trapped)

• Trying to eliminate frizz with product instead of technique

Healthy starter loc care focuses on:

• Light moisture (often water-based)

• Minimal product

• Clean scalp habits

What to Expect: Frizz, Puffing, and “Messy” Stages

Frizz and fuzz are normal. They can mean:

• Your hair is growing and needs maintenance

• Loose hairs are joining the loc

• Your texture is doing what it naturally does

• Your moisture balance needs adjustment

Frizz can also increase with:

• Lack of moisture

• Too much oil use

• Over-parting and weak sections

• Over-manipulation

• Comb retwisting trends (when roots are repeatedly detangled)

Frizz is only sometimes a sign of an unhealthy condition. In many cases, it’s just part of the process.

Maintenance: What “Retwist” Means for Starters

Maintenance is how you manage new growth and keep sections clean and supported.

Starter maintenance options may include:

• Palm rolling

• Interlocking

• Crochet maintenance

• Root wrapping

Each method has different tension levels and different effects. The best method depends on your hair and your goals.

Common Beginner Questions

How do I prevent unraveling?
Choose the right starter method for your hair type, avoid over-wetting early, keep manipulation low, and dry thoroughly.

Can I style my starter locs right away?
Low-tension styles are best. Avoid heavy, tight styles that pull the roots.

Can I start locs just to take them out later?
Starter locs are not designed to be installed and then removed without hair loss. When locs are combed out, accumulated shed hair is released all at once, and combing can pull additional hair with it. Some breakage is inevitable.

Why do my locs look different from other people’s?
Texture, density, method, product habits, and maintenance technique all impact appearance. Comparing timelines is usually misleading.

Final Notes

Starter locs are a commitment to process. The goal is not perfect neatness — it’s healthy roots, clean hair, and consistent care that supports long-term maturity.