Loc Talk Part 8: Buildup + “Detox” Myths
Let’s talk about the thing nobody wants to admit until the locs start acting haunted.
Buildup.
And the internet will have you believing you need to “detox” your hair every other Tuesday like locs is a juice cleanse.
Most of the time you don’t need a detox. You need clarity, a better routine, and products that make sense for locs.
Because remember: locs are like a sweater. They hold onto what you put in them. So if you keep stuffing the pockets, don’t be surprised when it starts feeling heavy.
What buildup actually is
Buildup is just stuff that didn’t move through the hair and didn’t rinse out fully.
It can be:
product residue
oils layered over oils
sweat + lint + environmental debris
hard water minerals
shampoo/conditioner that wasn’t rinsed well
styling products sitting in the loc like “we’ll deal with it later”
And the tricky part is this: buildup doesn’t always show up immediately.
Sometimes it’s quiet for months… then one day it’s loud.
Signs your locs are asking for clarity (not more product)
You might be dealing with buildup if:
your locs feel coated, sticky, or heavy
your hair looks dull even after “moisturizing”
your scalp itches but oil isn’t helping
your locs dry slower than usual
your locs feel stiff but also somehow greasy
you see gray/white residue in certain areas
your hair holds a smell even after cleansing
your hair feels like it’s collecting lint like it’s its job
That’s not your hair being “dry.” That’s your hair being full.
Why locs get buildup easier than loose hair
Locs are compact. Dense. Structured.
So anything thick, waxy, sticky, or heavy can sit in there and stay.
If the product feels like frosting, it’s going to behave like frosting.
For loc care, I prefer product that moves—more like honey. If it spreads easy, it rinses easier. If it’s hard to spread, it’s usually hard to remove.
Common buildup causes (the usual suspects)
Too much oil
Oil is not moisture. Oil is a seal.
When you keep oiling hair that isn’t properly hydrated or cleansed, you’re sealing in old layers and inviting dirt to stick.
Heavy products and “hold culture”
Some products people love for slick styles are not built for long-term loc health when used too often.
Thick edge controls, heavy gels, waxes, butters—those can become buildup magnets inside locs.
Not rinsing long enough
A lot of folks shampoo, rinse for 20 seconds, and call it done. Locs don’t work like that.
Locs require intention at rinse time because residue hides.
Hard water
Hard water can leave mineral deposits that make hair feel rough, coated, and dull. Sometimes people think that’s dryness and start piling on product—then it gets worse.
Over-layering without resetting
Moisture routines are cool. Product stacking without cleansing is not.
Detox myths (what the internet gets wrong)
Myth 1: “Detox your locs regularly”
If your routine is balanced, you should not need a dramatic detox all the time.
Constant detoxing can turn into another form of over-manipulation and over-processing.
Myth 2: “Detox means soaking your hair in the volcano mix”
You know the one: apple cider vinegar + baking soda, fizzing like a science fair.
That big dramatic reaction is part of why it stays popular—it looks good on camera. People use that show to sell services because it’s visually loud, feels “powerful,” and makes good content.
But here’s the truth: that mix is basically a degreaser moment. It does not replace cleansing. Even if you do that soak, you still need to shampoo. Otherwise you loosened stuff up and left it right there.
Myth 3: “If you see lint, you just need a detox”
Lint is often a lifestyle + friction issue (fabric, scarves, towels, hoodies, pillowcases), not always a detox issue.
And here’s the part people don’t like: once lint gets fully locked into the loc, it’s not just sitting on top anymore. It becomes part of the structure.
Most of the time it has to be cut out, or disguised with color—and color only really helps when the lint is a natural fiber.
So prevention matters. A lot.
Myth 4: “ACV will fix everything”
It won’t.
Sometimes it helps with feel and clarity for certain people. Sometimes it irritates. Sometimes it does nothing because the real issue is product choice, rinse habits, or hard water.
What to do instead: the clarity approach
Before you jump into detox, walk through this order.
Step 1: Simplify
Stop adding new stuff. Stop layering oils on top of oils. Give your hair a chance to speak.
Step 2: Cleanse correctly
Focus on the scalp
Let lather travel through
Rinse like you mean it
If you’re not sure you rinsed enough, rinse again
Bucket tip: If shampooing feels like a struggle, use a clean bucket or basin method. It makes it easier to fully saturate the hair, control water flow, and get more even product distribution—so you’re not just washing the top and hoping the rest participates.
Step 3: Check your product amount
A little goes a long way with locs.
If you’re using more than a palm-sized amount of product at a time, you’re setting yourself up for buildup. Locs hold receipts.
Step 4: Check your products
If your products are thick, waxy, or sticky and you’ve got buildup, your routine is telling you what needs to change.
Step 5: Address your water
If hard water is a factor, clarity methods may need to change. Sometimes it’s not your shampoo—it’s your water.
“But I already have buildup… what now?”
Some buildup can be handled with a proper cleanse and routine reset.
Some buildup needs professional support.
If buildup is deep inside the loc and has been sitting a long time, trying to strip it out at home can cause dryness, roughness, irritation—and then people panic and stack more product to fix the dryness. Now you got a new problem on top of the old one.
If you’re unsure, consult a licensed professional who works with locs consistently. The goal is to clean without creating a new issue.
Prevention: how to keep locs clean without living in fear
Choose products that move (not thick pastes)
Moisture first, then oil only if needed
Don’t re-oil on top of old layers
Rinse thoroughly every time
Use towels and fabrics that don’t shed lint easily
Reduce friction (bonnets, scarves, collars matter)
Keep your routine consistent, not dramatic
Use reasonable amounts—palm-sized, not “let me add more just in case”
Loc care is not supposed to feel like punishment. It’s maintenance, not a battle.
Closing
If your hair feels heavy, dull, sticky, or like it’s collecting everything you walk past, that’s not a sign to panic. It’s a sign to get clarity.
Locs don’t need constant detox.
Locs need routines that respect what locs are.
And locs are a sweater. They remember.
What’s next in Loc Talk
Next up, Part 9 is the practical one: tools and supplies that actually support loc care—dryers, towels, ties, bonnets, accessories, and what matters for lint + friction control.
And later, I’ll also drop a full DIY shampoo tutorial with tips on how to really work shampoo through the scalp and through the locs so it’s actually passing through—because that’s where most people go wrong. That’s also where a cup, a small bowl, or a bucket makes everything easier.
